Svolvaer is the capital of Lofoten. It is – like most towns in Lofoten (yes, in Lofoten) located on the eastern side of the islands, where the weather is calmer than on the western half, which is facing the Atlantic Ocean. The view from here to the norwegian mainland is stunning.

The people in Svolvaer are – and have always been – depending on fishing. Huge amounts of cod are still being caught here during the fishing season, and then dried on the characteristic drying racks all over the area.
But overfishing and the warming of the ocean cause a noticable decline in the fishermen’s income.

During the last ten years – I have been here 10 years ago – the sociological and economical change from a traditional fishing community towards a community of xenophile hosts and entertainers has been evident. Every Rorbu (the old traditional fishermen’s huts), every possible accommodation has been refurbished and put on Airbnb.
I notice a distance between the people here and the tourists – counting me in. Their welcoming and nothing but friendly behavior reminds me that behind this role, there’s a community in decline, a society I’d never be part of. Put Lofoten up on Airbnb.